My Town Syedra: Ancient Splendor on Asar Tepe Hill

Growing up in Cilicia, the ancient city of Syedra has always been more than just ruins to me – it’s home. As children, we would climb Asar Tepe Hill for picnics, fascinated by the crumbling walls and whispered stories of the past. I often wondered why anyone would build a city atop such a steep hill rather than on the comfortable plains below.

A View Worth Climbing For

The answer becomes clear the moment you reach the summit. Standing 400 meters above sea level, Syedra offers a panoramic view that takes your breath away. The Mediterranean stretches endlessly before you, with the coastline curving gracefully from Alanya to Gazipaşa. While practical for defence, allowing the ancients to monitor vast territories, I’ve always believed romance played a role, too. The sunsets from Syedra paint the sky in colours that change daily, each one a unique masterpiece.

A City at the Crossroads

Situated at the intersection of Pamphylia and Cilicia, Syedra’s regional classification shifted throughout history. The 6th-century geographer Stephanos Byzantinus placed it in the Isaura Region, while others considered it part of Pamphylia. This geographical significance contributed to the city’s prosperity and its turbulent history.

From Pirates to Prosperity

Archaeological evidence suggests Syedra’s story began around the 9th century BC, with ceramics from Cilicia and Cyprus marking its early trade connections. The city witnessed the rise and fall of empires – Lydian, Persian, Alexander’s conquests, and eventually Roman control.

One of Syedra’s most fascinating chapters involved pirates. In the early 1st century BC, the city suffered so severely from pirate attacks that its citizens consulted the oracle at Claros. Following the oracle’s advice, they constructed a triple statue series depicting the judgment of Ares, hoping for divine protection.

The Roman era brought Syedra its golden age. During the 2nd century AD, the city flourished with impressive construction projects and became renowned for hosting regional sporting events. Many inscriptions discovered in Syedra name these competitions and their champions.

The Olive Connection

Among Syedra’s most important economic activities was olive oil production. Recent excavations north of the Acropolis have uncovered a well-preserved olive workshop, revealing the significance of this industry to the city’s economy. Olive oil wasn’t just food – it was currency, medicine, and fuel for lamps. The workshop’s size suggests production on a scale that likely supported export trade throughout the Mediterranean.

The Slow Fade

By the 3rd century AD, Sassanid raids disrupted Roman rule. Syedra’s prosperity waned further with subsequent Arab raids in the 7th century. Though the city continued to appear in episcopal lists until the 12th century, its importance had diminished considerably. The final traces of settled life are represented by a few pieces of Anatolian Seljuk pottery, suggesting Syedra may have ended its days as a frontier fortress protecting Alanya Castle.

Rediscovery and Renaissance

After centuries of abandonment, Syedra began attracting scholarly attention in the 18th century when Western travellers developed an interest in Anatolian antiquities. In his 1817 publication, Beaufort noted Syedra’s steep location and impressive view, while Barker’s 1853 work mentioned the city’s famous cedar trees – possibly the source of its name.

Serious archaeological study began in 1891 when Heberdey and Wilhelm examined inscriptions at the site. Between 1994 and 1999, significant restoration efforts focused on the collonaded street and preserving the beautiful Eros mosaic that smugglers had damaged.

Today, thanks to the dedicated excavation team led by Dr. H. Ertuğ Ergürer, Syedra is experiencing a renaissance. Their work has transformed the site from a childhood playground to one of Alanya’s premier tourist attractions.

A City of Stories

As I walk these ancient streets, I still wonder about the people who once called Syedra home. What loves, lives, and dramas unfolded against this romantic backdrop? Where did they go when they left this hillside paradise?

If you visit – and I highly recommend you do – choose sunset. As the Mediterranean glows golden beneath the ancient stones, you’ll understand why Syedra has captivated hearts for three millennia, including mine.

Dr. Yakup Uslu

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